Understanding Ethoxylation: Why It’s a Controversial Process in Skincare
By:
Bryan Choong
On
31/10/2024Reading time:
5 min
Summary:
When you look at the ingredients list of your favorite skincare or personal care products, you might notice ingredients like SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate), Ceteareth-20, PPG, or PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. These ingredients are commonly found in commercial products, but what they all share in common is that they are ethoxylated compounds—ingredients that have undergone a chemical process known as ethoxylation.
While these ingredients are used to create foaming, emulsifying, or thickening effects in products, the process of ethoxylation has raised concerns due to the potential contamination of harmful byproducts like 1,4-dioxane. In this blog, we’ll explore what ethoxylation is, why it’s controversial, and the long-term effects of using products that may contain traces of 1,4-dioxane.
What Is Ethoxylation?
Ethoxylation is a chemical process that involves adding ethylene oxide to a substance, typically fatty alcohols or acids, to make them more water-soluble. This process is commonly used to produce ingredients that function as surfactants, emulsifiers, or detergents in personal care products. Ethoxylated compounds help improve a product’s texture, allow oil and water to mix, and create the rich lather we expect from shampoos, cleansers, and body washes.
Some common examples of ethoxylated ingredients include:
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES): A foaming agent found in shampoos, cleansers, and body washes.
Ceteareth-20: An emulsifier that helps oil and water mix in creams and lotions.
PPG (Polypropylene Glycol): Used as a thickening agent and stabilizer in various skincare products.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: A surfactant used in cleansing and emulsifying formulations.
While ethoxylation improves the functionality of these ingredients, it can also lead to contamination with a potentially harmful byproduct: 1,4-dioxane.
The Problem with 1,4-Dioxane
1,4-dioxane is a chemical byproduct that can be created during the ethoxylation process. It’s not intentionally added to products but forms as a contaminant when ethylene oxide reacts with other compounds. The presence of 1,4-dioxane in personal care products is concerning because it has been identified as a possible human carcinogen by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC).
Although 1,4-dioxane is typically found in small amounts in finished products, long-term exposure—even at low levels—can raise health concerns. The skin can absorb 1,4-dioxane, which may accumulate in the body over time, potentially contributing to serious health effects.
Key Concerns About 1,4-Dioxane:
Carcinogenic Potential: Research has shown that 1,4-dioxane may increase the risk of cancer after prolonged exposure, as animal studies have linked the chemical to liver and lung cancer.
Environmental Contamination: 1,4-dioxane is resistant to breaking down in the environment, which means it can persist in water supplies, contributing to pollution.
Skin Irritation: While 1,4-dioxane is primarily a carcinogenic concern, it can also cause skin irritation, especially in people with sensitive skin.
Why Ethoxylation Is Controversial
The main controversy surrounding ethoxylation stems from the potential contamination with 1,4-dioxane and the fact that this contaminant is not always disclosed on product labels. This is because 1,4-dioxane is a byproduct, not an intentional ingredient, so it doesn’t have to be listed like other ingredients.
Lack of Transparency: Consumers are often unaware that their products contain traces of 1,4-dioxane because it isn’t listed explicitly on the label. Ingredients like SLES, ceteareth-20, PPG, and PEG compounds don’t directly indicate the presence of 1,4-dioxane, even though they may be contaminated with it.
Regulatory Gaps: While some countries have set limits on the acceptable levels of 1,4-dioxane in personal care products, others have not implemented strict regulations. In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not mandate the removal of 1,4-dioxane, although it recommends that manufacturers take steps to reduce it. In contrast, countries like Canada have stricter regulations, requiring the removal of 1,4-dioxane through additional purification processes known as vacuum stripping.
Health Risks from Long-Term Exposure: Although the levels of 1,4-dioxane in individual products are generally low, the concern is that long-term exposure through regular use of multiple personal care products could increase the overall risk of health problems, including cancer. This cumulative exposure over time is the driving factor behind growing calls for more transparency and safer alternatives in cosmetic formulations.
How to Minimize Your Exposure to 1,4-Dioxane
While it’s difficult to completely avoid 1,4-dioxane in personal care products due to its presence as a byproduct, there are steps you can take to minimize your exposure:
1. Look for “1,4-Dioxane-Free” Labels
Some brands explicitly label their products as 1,4-dioxane-free. These brands typically take extra steps to remove the contaminant from their formulations during production. Opting for products labeled “free from ethoxylated ingredients” can help reduce your exposure.
2. Choose Organic or Natural Brands
Many organic and natural skincare brands avoid using ethoxylated ingredients altogether, opting for alternative surfactants and emulsifiers that don’t go through the ethoxylation process. While not all natural brands are free from contaminants, many of them are more transparent about their formulations.
3. Check for PEGs, SLES, and Other Ethoxylated Ingredients
Avoid products with ingredients like Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), PEG compounds, and Ceteareth ingredients if you’re concerned about 1,4-dioxane. These are the most common ethoxylated ingredients and the ones most likely to be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane.
4. Support Brands with Transparent Practices
Some companies voluntarily disclose their ingredient sourcing and manufacturing processes. Supporting brands that prioritize ingredient transparency and safety testing helps promote safer products in the market.
As consumers, understanding what ingredients to look for and choosing safer alternatives can help reduce exposure to potentially harmful byproducts. By opting for products that prioritize transparency, purity, and safety, you can make more informed decisions about the skincare products you use every day.
Ethoxylation is a common chemical process used to make skincare and personal care products more effective, but the contamination with 1,4-dioxane raises valid concerns about the safety of long-term use. While the contaminant is typically present in trace amounts, regular exposure through daily use of multiple products could have negative health consequences over time, including an increased risk of cancer.